Is there not a great charm in seeing an obscure subject clearly illuminated by facts well understood and well interpreted? If in a bottle containing wine and air and raised to a temperature of 50° or 60° the wine never turns sour, it is because the germs of the mycoderma aceti, which the wine and the air hold in suspension, are deprived of all vitality by the heat. Placed, however, in contact with ordinary air, this once-heated wine can turn sour; because, though the germs of the mycoderma aceti contained at first in the wine are killed, this is not the case with those derived from the surrounding air. Pure alcoholised water never turns sour, even in contact with ordinary air, and with whatever germs this air may carry, or that may be found in the dust of the vessels which receive it. The reason is that these germs cannot become fertile because of the absence of their indispensable food. Wine in bottles well filled and laid flat do not acetify; this is because the mycoderm cannot multiply for lack of oxygen. Without doubt the air constantly penetrates through the pores of the cork, but always in such feeble quantities that the colouring matters of the wine, and other more or less oxydisable constituents, take possession of it without leaving the smallest quantity for the germs of the mycoderm which are generally suspended in the wine. When the bottle is upright the conditions are quite altered. The desiccation of the cork renders it much more permeable to the air, and the germs of the mycoderm on the surface of the liquid, if any exist there, are enveloped by air.
Thus, to recapitulate in a few words the principles which have just been established; it is easy to see that the formation of vinegar is always preceded by the development, on the surface of the wine, of a little plant formed of strangulated particles, of an extreme tenuity, and the accumulation of which sometimes takes the form of a hardly visible veil, sometimes of a wrinkled film of very slight thickness, and greasy to the touch, because of the various fatty matters which the plant contains.
This cryptogam has the singular property of condensing considerable quantities of oxygen and of provoking the fixation of this gas upon the alcohol, which is thereby transformed into acetic acid. The little mycoderm is not less exacting than larger vegetables. It must have its appropriate aliments. Wine offers them in abundance: nitrogenous matters, the phosphates of magnesia and of potash. The mycoderm thrives, moreover, in warm climates. To cultivate it in temperate regions like ours it is well to warm artificially the places where it is cultivated. But if wine contains within itself all the elements necessary to the life of the little mycoderm, this life is further promoted by rendering the wine more acid through the addition of acetic acid.
What, then, can be more simple than to produce vinegar from wine—a manufacture which justly makes the reputation of the town of Orleans? Take some wine, and after having mixed with it one-fourth or one-third of its volume of vinegar already formed, sow on its surface the little plant which does the work of acetification. It is only necessary to skim off, by means of a wooden spatula, a little of the mycodermic film from a liquid covered with it, and to transfer it to the liquid to be acetified. The fatty matters which it contains render the wetting of it difficult. Thus, when we plunge into the liquid the spatula covered with the film, the latter detaches itself and spreads out over the surface instead of falling to the bottom. When we operate in summer, or in a room heated to 15° or 25° Centigrade in winter, in twenty-four or forty-eight hours at most, the mycoderm covers the whole liquid, so easy and rapid is its development. After some days all the wine has become vinegar.
On one occasion, in a discussion which he was holding at the Academy of Sciences, Pasteur, wishing to affirm the prodigious activity of the life and multiplication of this little organism, expressed himself thus:—
'I would undertake in the space of twenty-four hours to cover with mycoderma aceti a surface of vinous liquid as large as the hall in which we are here assembled. I should only have to sow in it the day before almost invisible particles of newly-formed mycoderma aceti.'
Let the reader try to imagine the millions upon millions of little mycoderma particles which would come to life in that one day.
But how is the mycoderm seed to be obtained in the first instance? Nothing more simple. The mycoderma aceti is one of those little so-called 'spontaneous' productions which are sure to appear of themselves on the surface of liquids or infusions suitable to their development. In wine, in vinegar, or suspended in air, everywhere around us, in our towns, in our houses, there exist germs of this little plant. If we wish to procure some fresh mycoderm it is only necessary to put a mixture of wine and vinegar into a warm place. In a few days, generally, if not always, there appear here and there little greyish patches scattering the light instead of regularly reflecting it, as does the surrounding liquid. These specks go on increasing progressively and rapidly. This is the mycoderma aceti raised from the seeds which the wine or the added vinegar contained, or which the air deposited; just as we see a field covered with divers weeds by seeds naturally distributed in the earth, or which have been brought to it by the wind or by animals. Even in this last circumstance the comparison holds good, for after you have put wine or vinegar in a warm place there soon appear, whence we know not, little reddish flies, so commonly seen in vinegar manufactories, and in all places where vegetable matter is turning sour. With their feet, or with their probosces, these flies transport the seed.
At Orleans the process for the manufacture of vinegar is very simple. Barrels ranged over each other have on each of their vertically-placed bottoms a circular opening some centimeters in diameter, and a smaller hole adjacent, called fausset, for the air to pass in and out when the large opening is closed, either by the funnel, through which the wine is introduced, or by the syphon, which is used for drawing off the vinegar. These barrels, of which the capacity is 230 litres, are half filled. The manual labour consists in keeping up a suitable temperature in the vessel, and in drawing from it every eight days about eight or ten litres of vinegar, which are replaced by eight or ten litres of wine.