Concluding the rest of our journey from Tlaxcallan to Mexico, through the City of Angels, and Guacocingo.
The next place most remarkable in the Rode wherein wee travelled was the City called by the Spaniards, La Puebla de los Angeles, the City of Angels. To the which wee were desirous to goe, knowing that in it there was a Convent of Dominicans of our profession, not having met with any such since the day we departed from St. John de Ulhua. Here wee refreshed our selves at leasure three dayes, finding our selves very welcome to our owne Brethren, who spared nothing that was fit for our entertainment. Wee visited all the City, and tooke large notice of it, judging of the wealth and riches of it not only by the great Trading in it, but by the many Cloisters both of Nuns and Fryers, which it maintaineth, such being commonly very burthensome to the places where they live, an idle kind of beggers who make the people believe the maintaining of them is meritorious and saving to their Soules, and that their prayers for them is more worth then the meanes and sustenance which they receive from them. Of these there is in that City a very great Cloister of some fifty or threescore Dominicans, another of more Franciscans, another of Augustins, another of Mercenarians, another of discalced Carmelites, another of Jesuits, besides foure of Nuns. This City is seated in a low and pleasant Valley, about ten leagues from a very high Mountaine, which is alwayes covered with snow; It standeth twenty leagues from Mexico, it was first built and inhabited in the yeare 1530. by the command of Don Antonio de Mendoza Viceroy of Mexico, together with the consent of Sebastian Ramirez, who was a Bishop, and had been President in time past in Sto. Domingo, and was that yeare in stead of Nunnio de Guzman, (who had behaved himselfe very evill both with the Indians and Spaniards) sent to bee President of the Chancery of Mexico with these other foure Judges the Licenciates John de Salmeron, Gasco Quiroga, Francisco Ceynos, and Alonso Maldonado. These Judges governed the land farre better then Nunnio de Guzman before them had done; and among other remarkable things they did, was to cause this City to bee inhabited; and set at liberty the Indians who inhabited there before, and were grievously suppressed and inslaved by the Spaniards, and therefore many of them departed from thence, who had inhabited there before, and went to seeke their living at Xalixco, Honduras, Guatemala and other places, where Warre then was. This City was formerly called by the Indians Cuetlaxcoapan, that is to say, a Snake in water; the reason was, because there are two Fountaines, the one of evill water, and the other of good. This City is now a Bishops Sea, whose yeerely Revenues since the cutting off from it Xalappa De la Vera Crux, are yet worth above twenty thousand Duckats; By reason of the good and wholesome aire it dayly increaseth with Inhabitants, who resort from many other places to live there; but especially the yeare 1634. when Mexico was like to bee drowned with the inundation of the lake, thousands left it, and came with all their goods and Families to this City of the Angels, which now is thought to consist of ten thousand Inhabitants. That which maketh it most famous is the Cloth which is made in it, and is sent farre and neere, and judged now to bee as good as the Cloth of Segovia, which is the best that is made in Spain, but now is not so much esteemed of, nor sent so much from Spain to America by reason of the abundance of fine Cloth which is made in this City of Angels. The Felts likewise that are made, are the best of all that Country; there is likewise a glassehouse, which is there a rarity, none other being as yet knowne in those parts. But the mint house that is in it, where is coyned halfe the Silver that cometh from Sacatecas, makes it the second to Mexico; and it is thought that in time it will bee as great and populous as Mexico. Without it there are many Gardens, which store the Markets with provision of Salets; the soile abounds with Wheat, and with Sugar Farmes; among the which not farre from this City there is one so great and populous (belonging to the Dominican Fryers of Mexico) that for the work onely belonging unto it, it maintained in my time above two hundred black-more slaves men and women besides their little children. The chief Town betweene this City of Angels, and Mexico, is called Guacocingo consisting of some five hundred Indians, and one hundred Spaniards Inhabitants. Here is likewise a Cloister of Franciscans, who entertained us gallantly, and made shew unto us of the dexterity of their Indians in Musick. Those fat Fryers wanted not like the rest all Provision necessary for the body. But their greatest glory and boasting to us was the education which they had given to some children of the Town, especially such as served them in their Cloister, whom they had brought up to dancing after the Spanish fashion at the sound of the Guitarra. And this a dozen of them (the biggest not being above fourteene years of age) performed excellently for our better entertainment that night, wee were there till midnight, singing both Spanish and Indian tunes, capering and dancing with their Castannettas, or knockers on their fingers with such dexterity, as not onely did delight, but amaze and astonish us. True it is, wee thought those Franciscans might have been better imployed at that time in their Quire at their midnight devotions according to their profession; but we still found vowed religious duties more and more neglected, and worldlinesse too too much imbraced, by such as had renounced and forsaken the world and all its pleasures, sports and pastimes.
This Towne of Guacocingo is almost as much as Tlaxcallan priviledged by the Kings of Spain; for that it joyned with Tlaxcallan against the Mexicans, in defence of Hernando Cortez and the rest of the Spaniards that first conquered that land. These of Guacocingo being confederated with the inhabitants of Tlaxcallan, Chololla, and Huacacholla strongly defended the inhabitants of Chalco, when they sent to Cortez for succour, declaring that the Mexicans made great spoile among them. Which succour Cortez at that time not being able to send them; being busied in sending for his Vergantines to besiege Mexico by water as well as by land, he remitted them to the helpe of the Tlaxcalteca's, and unto these of Guacocingo, Chlolla, and Huacacholla; who shewed great valour as yet never buried in oblivion, in relieving Chalco against the strength, and power of Montezuma, which had issued out of Mexico, to keep the Spaniards from drawing neer unto that City. For that fact is this Towne with the others fore-mentioned, untill this day priviledged and highly esteemed of the Spaniards. From hence wee made our last journey to the City of Mexico, parting over the side of that high hill which we had discovered at the City of Angels, some thirty miles off. There are no Alpes like unto it for height, cold, and constant snow that lieth upon it. From Spain to that place we had not felt any such extremity of cold, which made the Spaniards that had come out of the hot climate of Spain, and endured excessive heat at sea, wonder and admire. This last journey from Guacocingo to Mexico we reckoned to be thirty English miles, and of the thirty miles we judged at least the fifteen to be up and downe the hill; and yet the top of it (whither we ascended not) was far higher. From that highest part of it which we travailed over, we discovered the City of Mexico, and the lake about it, which seemed to us to be neer at hand, standing some ten English miles in a plain from the bottome of this mountaine. When Hernando Cortez went the second time from Tlaxcallan to Mexico, to besiege it by land and by water, with Vergantines which for that purpose he had caused to be made, on the side of this mountaine were his land Forces lodged, where many had perished with cold, had it not been for the store of wood which they found there. But in the morning he ascended upwards on this hill, and sent his scout of foure Foot-men and four Horse-men to discover, who found the way stopped with great trees newly cut downe by the Mexicans, and placed crossewise in the way. But they thinking that yet forwards it was not so, proceeded forth as well as they might, till at length the let with great huge Cedars was such, that they could passe no further, and with this newes were forced to return, certifying Cortez that the Horse-men could not passe that way in any wise. Cortez demanded of them whether they had seen any people; they answered No. Whereupon he proceeded forward, with all the Horse-men, and a thousand Foot-men, commanding all the residue of his Army to follow him with as much speed as might be; so that with that company which he carried with him, he made way, taking away the trees that were cut downe to disturbe his passage; and in this order in short time passed his host without any hurt or danger, but with great pain and travaile; for certainly if the Mexicans had been there to defend that passage, the Spaniards had not passed; for it was then a very evill way (though now it be a reasonable wide open rode, where Mules laden with wares from St. John de Ulhua, and the Sugar farmes daily passe) and the Mexicans also thought the same to be sure with the trees which were crossed the way; whereupon they were carelesse of that place, and attended their coming in plain ground; for from Tlaxcallan to Mexico are three wayes, of the which Cortez chose the worst, imagining the thing that afterwards fell out, or else some had advised him how that way was cleare from the enemies. At the descent of this hill Cortez abode and rested himselfe, till all the whole Army were come together, to descend downe into the plaine; for from hence they descried the fires and beacons of their enemies in sundry places, and all those who had attended their coming by the other two waies, were now gathered together, thinking to set upon them betwixt certain bridges (which are in the plain made for travellers by reason of the many dikes and currents of water which issue from the lake) where a great company abode expecting their coming. But Cortez sent twenty Horse-men who made way among them, and then followed the whole Army, who slew many of them without receiving any hurt. Thus did the remembrance of those antiquities newly refreshed by the object of the hill and plain beneath, make that cold and hard passage more comfortable and easie unto us. The first Towne we came to below the hill, was Quahutipec, of the jurisdiction of Tezcuco; where we also called to mind, that this was the place, neer unto which was pitched the Campe of the Indians of Culhua, which was neer a hundred thousand men of warre, who were sent by the Seniors of Mexico and Tezcuco to encounter Cortez; but all in vain; for his Horse-men broke through them, and his Artillerie made such havock among them, that they were soon put to flight.
Three leagues from hence on our right hand as we travailed, we discovered Tezcuco by the side of the lake, and out of the Rode; yet it ministred unto us matter of a large discourse, taken from the time of Cortez and the first Conquerers, who found it a great City, and at that time even as big as Mexico; though in it Cortez met with no resistance; for as he journeyed towards it, foure principall persons inhabitants of it met with his forces, bearing a rod of gold with a little flag in token of peace, saying that Coacuacoyocin their Lord had sent them to desire him not to make any spoile in his City, and Townes about it; and likewise to offer his friendship, praying also that it might please him with his whole Army to take his lodging in the Town of Tezcuco, where he should be well received. Cortez rejoycing at this message, yet jealous of some treachery, and mistrusting the people of Tezcuco (whose forces joyned with the Mexicans and Culhuacans he had met with a little before) went forward on his way and came to Quahutichan and Huaxuta (which then were suburbs of the great City Tezcuco, but now are petty Villages by themselves) where he and all his host were plenteously provided of all things necessary, and threw down the Idols. This done he entred into the City, where his lodging was prepared in a great house, sufficient for him and all the Spaniards, with many other his Indian friends. And because that at his first entry, he saw neither women nor children, he suspected some treason, and forthwith proclaimed upon pain of death that none of his men should goe out. In the evening the Spaniards went up into the Zoties and galleries to behold the City, and there they saw the great number of Citizens that fled from thence with their stuffe, some towards the mountaines, and others to the water side to take boat, a thing strange to see the great haste and stirre to provide for themselves. There were at that time at least twenty thousand little boats (called Canoas) occupied in carrying houshold-stuffe and passengers; Cortez would faine have remedied it, but the night was so nigh at hand, that he could not. He would gladly also have apprehended the Lord, but hee was one of the first that fled unto Mexico. This Towne of Tezcuco to this day is famous among the Spaniards; for that it was one of the first, if not the first (which according to the Histories of those parts is very probable) that received a Christian King to rule and governe. For Cortez hearing that Coacuacoyocin then King of that City and Townes adjacent was fled, caused many of the Citizens to be called before him, and having in his company a young gentleman of a Noble house in that countrey, who had been lately Christened, and had to name Hernando (Cortez being his God-father, who loved him well) said unto the Citizens, that this new Christian Lord Don Hernando was sonne unto Nezavalpincintli their loving Lord, wherefore he required them to make him their King, considering that Coacuacoyocin was fled unto the enemies, laying also before them his wicked fact in killing of Cacuza his owne brother, onely to put him from his inheritance and Kingdome, through the enticement of Quahuatimoecin a mortall enemy to the Spaniards. In this sort was that new Christian Don Hernando elected King, and the fame thereof being blown abroad, many Citizens repaired home again to visit their new Prince, so that in short space the City was as well replenished with people, as it was before, and being also well used at the Spaniards hands, they served them diligently in all things that they were commanded. And Don Hernando abode ever after a faithfull friend unto the Spaniards in their warres against Mexico, and in short time learned the Spanish tongue. And soone after came the inhabitants of Quahutichan, Huaxuta, and Autenco to submit themselves, craving pardon if in any thing they had offended. Within two daies after Don Hernando was made King of this great City and Territorie belonging to it (whose borders reach unto the borders of Tlaxcallan) came certaine gentlemen of Huaxuta and Quahutichan, to certifie unto him, how all the power of the Mexicans was coming towards them, and to know if it were his pleasure, that they should carry their wives, children and other goods into the mountaines, or else to bring them where he was, their feare was so great. Cortez for the King his God-child and favourite made unto them this answer, saying, Bee ye of good courage, and feare ye not. Also I pray you to command your wives and families to make no alteration, but rather quietly to abide in your houses. And concerning the enemies I am glad of their coming, for yee shall see how I will deale with them. But the enemies went not to Huaxuta, as it was thought, neverthelesse Cortez having intelligence where they were, went out to encounter them with two pieces of Ordnance, twelve Horsemen and two hundred Spaniards, and with many Indians of Tlaxcallan. He fought with the enemy, and slew but few, for they fled to the water, and so escaped in their Canoa's. Thus did Cortez in Tezcuco defend himselfe and friends from the great power of the Mexicans, who daily attempted to be revenged on him, and the new Christian King whom he had made. But Cortez, thinking that place the most convenient to lanch his Vergantines to the water, and hearing that they were finished at Tlaxcallan, sent Gonzalo de Sandoval to bring them from Tlaxcallan; who at the border of that Province met with them being brought in pieces, as tables, planks and nayles, with all other furniture, the which eight thousand men carried upon their backes. There came also for their safe conduct twenty thousand men of warre, and a thousand Tamemez, who were the Carriers of victuals, and servants. Chichimecatetl, a principall and valiant Indian and Captaine of a thousand men had the Rere-gard. And Tupitil and Teutecotl, very principall gentlemen, had the Vant-gard with ten thousand men. In the midst were placed the Tamemez, and those that carried the Foyst, with all the apparell of the Vergantines. Before those two Captains went a hundred Spaniards, and eight Horse-men, and behind and last came Gonzalo de Sandoval with all the residue, and seven Horse-men. Thus they tooke their way towards Tezcuco, with a marvellous noise, crying, Christians, Christians, Tlaxcallan, Tlaxcallan, and Spaine. When they came to Tezcuco, they entred in very good order, with the sound of Drummes, Snail shels, and other like instruments of musick; and against their entry into the City, they put on all their bravery of clothes, and bushes of feathers, which was a gallant sight; they were six houres in entring into the Towne, keeping their array. At the fame of this many Provinces came to submit and offer their service unto Cortez, some for fear of destruction, and others for the hatred which they bare to the Mexicans; so that now Cortez was strong both with Spaniards and Indians; and his Court at Tezcuco was as great, or greater then Montezuma's formerly had been at Mexico. And here Cortez made his preparation for the siege of Mexico with all hast, and furnished himselfe with scaling ladders, and other necessaries fit for such a purpose. His Vergantines being nayled and throughly ended, he made a sluce, or trench of halfe a league of length, twelve foot broad and more, and two fadome in depth. This worke was fifty daies a doing, although there were foure hundred thousand men daily working; truly a famous worke and worthy of memory, which hath made Tezcuco gloriously mentioned, though now almost decayed in the great number of inhabitants. The Dock or Trench being thus finished, the Vergantines were calked with towe and cotton wooll, and for want of Tallow and oyle, they were (as some Authors report) driven to take mans grease, not that Cortez permitted them to slay men for that effect, but of those which were slaine in the warres, and of such as sallied dayly out of Mexico to hinder this work, and fighting were slaine. The Indians, who were cruel and bloody Butchers, using sacrifice of mans flesh, would in this sort open the dead body and take out the grease. The Vergantines being lanched, Cortez mustered his men, and found nine hundred Spaniards, of the which were fourscore and six Horse-men, and a hundred and eighteen with Crosse-bowes, and Hargabushes; and all the residue had sundry weapons, as Swords, Daggers, Targets, Launces, and Halberts. Also they had for armour, Corslets, coats of Mayle, and Jackes. They had moreover three great Peeces of cast Iron, fifteen small peeces of brasse, and ten hundred weight of powder, with store of shot, besides a hundred thousand Indians, men of warre. On Whitsunday all the Spaniards came into the field, that great plaine below the high mountaine spoken of before, where Cortez made three chiefe Captaines, among whom he divided his whole Army. Unto Pedro de Alvarado the first Captaine he appointed thirty Horse-men, and a hundred and seventy Foote men of the Spaniards, two peeces of Ordnance, and thirty thousand Indians, commanding him to campe in Tlacopan. Unto Christoval de Olid the second Captaine hee gave three and thirty horsemen, and a hundred and eighteen footmen of the Spanish Nation, two Peeces of Ordnance and thirty thousand Indians, and appointed him to pitch his campe in Culhuacan. To Gonzalo de Sandoval, who was the third Captaine, hee gave three and twenty horsemen, and a hundred and threescore footmen, two peeces of Ordnance, and forty thousand Indians, with Commission to choose a place to pitch his campe. In every Vergantine hee planted a peice or Ordnance, six Hargabushes, or Crosse-bowes, and three and twenty Spaniards, men most fit for that purpose. Hee appointed also Captaines for each, and himselfe for Generall, whereof some of the chiefest of his Company began to murmur, that went by land, thinking that they had been in greater danger; wherefore they required him to goe with the maine battaile, and not by water. Cortez little esteemed their words; for although there was more danger in the land then in the water, yet it did more import to have greater care in the Warres by water, then on the land, because his men had beene in the one, and not in the other. Besides the chiefest hopes that Cortez had to winne Mexico, were these Vessels, for with them he burned a great part of the Canoa's of Mexico, and the rest hee so locked up, that they were no help unto the Mexicans, and with twelve onely Vergantines hee did annoy his enemy as much by water, as the rest of his Army did by land. All this preparation for the siege of Mexico by land and water, with above a hundred thousand Indians, besides the Spaniards above mentioned, and the twelve Vergantines by water, was finished in this City of Tezcuco, which is a sufficient argument of the greatnesse of it at that time, maintaining with Provision fit and necessary so many thousands of people, and it yeelded matter enough unto us for a large discourse, whilst not farre from the sight of it wee travelled in the open and direct plaine Rode to Mexico. And as we talked of the greatnesse of it in former times, so likewise wee now wondered to consider it to bee but a small Government, where doth constantly reside a Spanish Governour sent from Spain, whose power reacheth to those borders of Tlaxcallan and Guacocingo, and to most of the petty Townes and Villages of the plaine, which were formerly under the command and power of a King; but now are not able to make up above a thousand Duckats a yeer, which is supposed to bee the yeerly revenues of the Governour; and Tezcuco it self this day judged to consist onely of a hundred Spaniards, and three hundred Indian Inhabitants, whose chiefe riches come by gardening, and sending daily in their Canoa's Herbes and Salets to Mexico. Some wealth likewise they get by their Cedar trees which grow there, and are ready timber for the buildings of Mexico. Yet now also are these Cedars much decayed by the Spaniards, who have wasted and spoiled them in their too too sumptuous buildings. Cortez onely was accused by Pamfilo de Narvaez, for that hee had spent seven thousand beames of Cedar trees in the worke of his owne house. Gardens there were in Tezcuco formerly, that had a thousand Cedar trees for walls and circuite, some of them of a hundred and twenty foot long, and twelve foot in compasse from end to end; but now that Garden that hath fifty Cedar trees about it, is much regarded. At the end of this plain wee passed through Mexicalcinco, which formerly was a great Town, but now not of above an hundred Inhabitants, and from thence to Guetlavac, a petty Village, yet most pleasant for the shade of many fruit trees, Gardens, and stately houses which for their recreation some Citizens of Mexico have built there, being at the foot of the Cawsey which from this Town through the Lake reacheth about five English miles to Mexico. And thus upon the third day of October, 1625. wee entred into that famous and gallant City, yet not abiding in it, but onely passing through it, till we came to a house of recreation, standing among the Gardens in the way to Chapultepec, named Saint Jacintho, belonging to the Dominicans of Manila in the East-India's, (whither our course was intended) where wee were stately entertained, and abode till after Candlemasse day, the time of our second shipping at Acoapulco (80 leagues from Manila) by the South-Sea to Manila the chief City of the Islands named Philippinas.
[CHAP. XII.]
Shewing some particulars of the great and famous City of Mexico in former times, with a true description of it now; and of the State and condition of it the yeare 1625.
It hath been no small peece of Policy in the Fryers and Jesuites of Manila and the Islands of Philippinas to purchase neere about Mexico, some house and Garden to carry thither such Missionary Preists as they yeerly bring from Spain for those parts. For were it not that they found some rest and place of Recreation, but were presently closed up in the Cloisters of Mexico to follow those Religious duties (which sore against their wills most of them are forced to) they would soone after a tedious journey from Spain by Sea and land relent of their purposes of going forward, and venturing upon a second voiage by the South-Sea; and would either resolve upon a returne to Spain, or of staying in some part of America; as my selfe and five more of my company did, though secretly and hiddenly, and sore against the will of Fryer Calvo and others, who had the tutoring and conducting of us. Therefore that all such as come from Spain to bee shipped againe at Acoapulco for Philippinas, may have all manner of incouragement, rest and recreations becomming their Professions, whilst they doe abide in America, and may not bee disheartned by those that live about Mexico, (who doe truely envy all that passe that way to Asia) the Fryers and Jesuites have purchased for their Missions houses of Recreation among the Gardens, which are exempted from the power and command of the Superiors of Mexico, and are subordinate unto the Government of the Provincials of Philippinas, who send from thence their substitute Vicars to rule, and to looke to the forementioned houses and Gardens. To the Dominicans belonged this house called St. Jacintho, whither wee were carried, and where wee did abide neere five moneths, having all things provided that were fit and necessary for our Recreations, and for our better encouragement to a second voiage by Sea. The Gardens belonging to this house might bee of fifteen Acres of ground, divided into shady walkes under the Orange and Lemmon trees; there wee had the Pomegranates, Figges, and Grapes in abundance, with the Plantin, Sapotte, Chicosapotte, Pine-fruit, and all other fruits that were to bee found in Mexico. The Herbes and Salets, and great number of Spanish Cardoes which were sold out, brought in a great Rent yeerely; for every day there was a Cart attended to bee filled and sent to the Market of Mexico; and this not at seasons of the yeere, as here in England and other parts of Europe, but at all times and seasons, both Winter and Summer, there being no difference of heat, cold, frosts, and snow, as with us; but the same temper all the whole yeer, the Winter differing onely from the Summer by the raine that falls, and not by excessive frosts that nip. This wee enjoyed without dores; but within wee had all sorts and varieties both of fish and flesh. What most wee wondred at, was the abundance of sweet-Meats; and especially of Conserves that were provided for us; for to every one of us during the time of our abode there, was brought on Munday morning halfe a dozen Boxes of Conserve of Quinces, and other fruits, besides our Biskets, to stay our stomackes in the mornings and at other times of the day; for in our stomackes we found a great difference betweene Spain and that Countrey. For in Spain and other parts of Europe a mans stomack will hold out from meale to meale, and one meale here of good cheer will nourish and cherish the stomack foure and twenty houres; But in Mexico and other parts of America wee found that two or three houres after a good meale of three or foure severall dishes of Mutton, Veale or Beefe, Kid, Turkies, or other Fowles, our stomackes would bee ready to faint, and so wee were faine to support them with either a cup of Chocolatte, or a bit of Conserve or Bisket, which for that purpose was allowed us in great abundance. This seemed to mee so strange, (whereas the meat seemed as fat and hearty, excepting the Beefe, as ours in Europe) that I for some satisfaction presently had recourse to a Doctor of Physick; who cleared my doubt with this answer, That though the meat we fed on was as faire to looke on, as in Spain; yet the substance and nourishment in it came farre short of it, by reason of the pasture, which is dryer and hath not the change of springs which the pastures of Europe have, but is short and withers soone away. But secondly, hee told mee that the Climate of those parts had this effect, to produce a faire shew, but little matter or substance. As in the flesh wee fed on; so likewise in all the fruits there, which are most faire and beautifull to behold, most sweet and luscious to taste, but little inward virtue or nourishment at all in them, not halfe that is in a Spanish Camuesa, or English Kentish Pippin. And as in Meat, and fruit there is this inward and hidden deceit, so likewise the same is to bee found in the people that are borne and bred there, who make faire outward shewes, but are inwardly false and hollow hearted. Which I have heard reported much among the Spaniards to have beene the answer of our Queene Elizabeth of England to some that presented unto her of the fruits of America, that surely where those fruits grew, the women were light, and all the people hollow and false hearted. But further reasons I omit to search into for this; of experience onely I write, which taught me that little substance & virtue is in the great abundance and variety of food which there is enjoyed, our stomackes witnessing this truth, which ever and anon were gaping and crying, Feed, feed. Our Conserves therefore and dainties were plentifully allowed us; and all other incouragements and no occasion denied us of going to visit Mexico, (which was not two full miles from us) all the while wee abode there. It was a pleasant walke for us to goe out in the morning, and to spend all the day in the City and come home at night; our way lying by Arches made of stone, three miles long to convey the water from Chapultepec unto the City. Take therefore, gentle Reader, from mee what for the space of five moneths I could learne concerning it in former and present times. The situation of this City is much like that of Venice; but onely differs in this, that Venice is built upon the Sea-water, and Mexico upon a lake, which seeming one, indeed is two; one part whereof is standing water; the other ebbeth and floweth according to the wind that bloweth. That part which standeth, is wholesome, good, and sweet, and yeeldeth store of small fish. That part which ebbeth and floweth, is of saltish, bitter, and pestiferous water, yeelding no kind of fish, small or great. The sweet water standeth higher then the other, and falleth into it, and reverteth not backward, as some conceive it doth. The salt Lake containeth fifteen miles in breadth, and fifteen in length, and more then five and forty in Circuite; and the Lake of sweet water containeth even as much; in such sort that the whole Lake containeth much about a hundred miles. The Spaniards are divided in opinions concerning this water and the springs of it; some hold that all this water hath but one spring out of a great and high Mountaine which standeth Southwest within sight of Mexico, and that the cause that the one part of the Lake is brackish or saltish, is that the bottome or ground is all salt; But however this opinion bee true or false, certaine it is and by experience I can witnesse that of that part of the salt water great quantity of Salt is dayly made, and is part of the great Trading of that City into other parts of the Countrey, nay it is sent part of it to the Philippinas Islands. Others say that this Lake hath two springs, and that the fresh water springeth out of that Mountaine which standeth Southwest from Mexico, and the salt brakish water springeth out of other high Mountaines which stand more Northwest; But these give no reason for the saltnesse of it, without it bee the agitation of it in the ebbing and flowing; which not being with tides like the Sea, but with the winds onely (which indeed make it as stormy sometimes as is the Sea) why may not the winds produce the same effect in the fresh water Lake? I think rather, if it spring from a different spring from that from whence springeth the fresh water, the brackishnesse and saltishnesse of it may proceed from some brackish and sulphurous minerals through which it passeth in those Mountaines. For by experience I know the like in the Province of Guatemala, where by a Towne called Amatitlan, there is a standing Lake of water not altogether sweet and fresh, but a little brackish, which certainly hath its spring from a fiery Mountaine called there a Vulcan, (whose burning proceeds from the Mines of brimstone that are within it) from whence spring neere the same Towne likewise two or three springs of exceeding hot water, which are resorted to for wholesome bathes, as coming through a sulphurous mine, and yet the standing Lake proceeding from the same Mountaine is of that quality that it maketh the ground about it salt, and especially in the mornings the people go to gather up the salt which lyeth upon the ground by the water side like unto a hoary frost. But thirdly, others concieve that that part of the Lake of Mexico which is saltish and brackish comes through the earth from the North Sea; and though springs of water which come from the Sea lose their brackishnesse through the earth, yet this may keepe some brackishnesse by reason of the minerals, which are many in those parts; or by reason of the great, wide and open concavities of those mountaines, which being very hollow within (as wee find by experience of the Earthquakes which are more frequent there then here by reason of the wind that getteth into those concavities, and so shake the earth to get out) give no way to the water to sweeten through the earth, or to lose all that saltnesse which it brought with it from the Sea. But whatsoever the true reason bee, there is not the like Lake knowne of sweet and saltish water, one part breeding fish, the other breeding none at all. This Lake had formerly some fourescore Townes, some say more, situated round about it; many of them containing five thousand housholds, and some ten thousand, yea and Tezcuco (as I have said before) was as bigge as Mexico. But when I was there, there might bee thirty Townes and Villages about it, and scarce any of above five hundred housholdes between Spaniards and Indians; such hath beene the hard usage of the Spaniards towards them, that they have even almost consumed that poore Nation. Nay two yeers before I came from those parts, which were the yeers of 1635. and 1636. I was credibly informed that a million of Indians lifes had been lost in an indeavour of the Spaniards to turne the water of the Lake another way from the City, which was performed by cutting away through the Mountaines, for to avoid the great inundations that Mexico was subject unto, and especially for that the yeer 1634. the waters grew so high that they threatned destruction to all the City, ruinating a great part, and coming into the Churches that stood in the highest part of it, in so much that the people used commonly boats and Canoa's from house to house. And most of the Indians that lived about the Lake were imployed to strive against this strong Element of water, which hath been the undoing of many poore wretches, but especially of these thirty Towns and Villages that bordered near upon the Lake; which now by that great work is further from the houses of the City; and hath a passage made another way, though it was thought it would not long continue, but would find againe its old course towards Mexico. This City when Cortez first entred into it, (was as some say) of sixty, but more probably it is reported to have beene of fourescore thousand houses. Montezuma his palace was very great, large and beautifull, which in the Indian language was named Tepac; and that had twenty doores or gates, which had their outcoming into the common streets. It had three Courts; and in the one stood a faire Fountaine, many hals, and a hundred chambers of three and twenty, and thirty foot long, an hundred bathes, and hot houses; and all this without nailes, yet very good workmanship. The walls were made of Masons worke, and wrought of Marble, Jaspe, and other black stone, with veines of red, like unto Rubies and other stones which glistered very faire; the roofs were wrought of timber, and curiously carved, being of Cedar, Cypres, and Pine tree; the Chambers were painted and hung with cloth of Cotton, and of Coneys haire and feathers. The beds onely were unseeming this great state, very poore and of no value, such as to this day the best and richest Indians use; for they weare nothing but mantles laid upon mattes, or upon hey, or else mattes alone. Within this Palace lived a thousand women, nay some affirme three thousand, reckoning gentlewomen, servants and slaves, all together; But the most were principall Indians daughters; of whom Montezuma tooke for himselfe those that liked him best, and the others hee gave in marriage to gentlemen his servants. It is credibly reported among the Spaniards that hee had at one time a hundred and fifty women his wives with child, who commonly tooke medicines to cast their creatures, because they knew that they should not inherit the State; and these had many old women to guard them, for no man was permitted to looke upon them. Besides this Tepac; which signifieth, Palace, Montezuma had yet in Mexico another house with very curious lodgings and fair Galleries, built upon pillars of Jaspe, which looked towards a goodly Garden, in the which there were at least a dozen Ponds, some of salt water for Sea fowles, and others of fresh water for River fowles and Lake fowles, which Ponds were devised with Sluces to empty and to fill at pleasure for the cleannesse of the Fowles feathers; and these Fowles are said to have beene so many in number, that the Ponds could scarcely hold them, and of such severall sorts, and of such strange and various coloured feathers, that the most of them the Spaniards knew not, nor had at any time seen the like. There did belong to that house above three hundred persons of service, who had their severall charge concerning these Fowles; some had care to cleanse the Ponds; others were appointed to fish for bait; others served them with meat; and to every kind of fowle they gave such bait as they were wont to feed of in the fields or rivers; others did trim their feathers; others had care to look to their egs; others to set them abrood; & the principallest office was to pluck the feathers; for of them were made rich mantles, tapistry, targets, tuffes of feathers, and many other things wrought with gold and silver.
Besides this house, Montezuma had yet another house within Mexico, appointed only for hawking fowles, and fowles of rapine. In which house there were many high Halls, wherein were kept men, women, and children, such as were dwarfes, crook-backs or any monstrous persons, and with them such as were born white of colour, which did very seldome happen; nay some would deform their children on purpose to have them carried to the Kings house, to helpe to set forth his greatnesse by their deformity. In the lower Halls of this house there were Cages for fowls of rapine of all sorts, as Hawkes, Kites, Boyters (which are very many in those parts) and of the Hawkes neer a dozen sundry kinds of them. This house had for daily allowance five hundred Turkey cocks, and three hundred men of service, besides the Falconers and Hunters, which some say were above a thousand men. The Hunters were maintained in that house, because of the ravenous Beasts which were also kept in the lower Halls in great cages made of timber, wherein were kept in some Lions, in other Tygres, in other Ownzes, in other Wolves; in conclusion, there was no four-footed beast that wanted there, only to the effect, that the mighty Montezuma might say that he had such things in his house; and all were fed daily with Turkey cocks, Deare, Dogges, and such like. There were also in another Hall great earthen vessels, some with earth, and some with water, wherein were Snakes, as grosse as a mans thigh, Vipers, Crocodiles which they call Caymanes, of twenty foot long with scales and head like a Dragon; besides many other smaller Lisarts and other venemous beasts and Serpents, as well of the water as of the land. To these Snakes and the other venemous beasts they usually gave the blood of men sacrificed to feed them. Others say they gave unto them mans flesh, which the great Lisarts, or Caimanes eat very well. But what was wonderfull to behold, horrid to see, hideous to heare in this house, was the Officers dayly occupations about these Beasts, the floor with blood like a gelly, stinking like a slaughter-house, and the roaring of the lions, the fearfull hissing of the Snakes and Adders, the dolefull howling and barking of the Wolves, the sorrowfull yelling of the Ownzes and Tigres, when they would have meat. And yet in this place, which in the night season seemed a dungeon of Hell, and a dwelling place of the Devill, could a heathen Prince pray unto his Gods and idols: for neer to this Hall was another of a hundred and fifty foot long and thirty foot broad, where was a chappell with the roofe of silver and gold in leafe wainscotted and decked with great store of pearl and stone, as Agats, Cornerines, Emeralds, Rubies, and divers other sorts; and this was the Oratory where Montezuma prayed in the night season, and in that chappell the Devill did appear unto him, and gave him answer according to his prayers, which as they were uttered among so many ugly and deformed beasts, and with the noise of them which represented Hell itselfe, were fitted for a Devils answer. He had also his Armoury, wherein was great store of all kind of such Ammunition which they used in their wars, as Bowes, Arrowes, Slings, Launces, Darts, Clubs, Swords and bucklers, and gallant Targets more trimme then strong, and all made of wood, gilt or covered with leather. The wood whereof they made their Armour and Targets was very hard and strong; and at their arrowes ends they inclosed a little peece of flint-stone, or a peece of a fish-bone called Libisa, which was so venemous, that if any were hurt with it, and the head remained in the wound, it so festered that it was almost incurable. Their Swords were of wood, and the edge thereof was flint-stone, inclosed or joyned into a staffe; and with these swords they cut speares, yea and a Horses neck at a blow, and could make dents into iron, which seemeth a thing unpossible and incredible. These flints were joyned into the staffes with a certain kind of glew, which was made of a root called Zacolt, and Teuxalli, which is a kind of strong sand, whereof they made a mixture, and after kneaded it with blood of Battes, or Reare-mice and other fowle, which did glew so strong, that it scarce ever uncleaved again; and of these Montezuma had in his house of Armour great store. But besides these houses it is wonderfull to relate, yet many others which that great heathen Emperour had for his only recreation and pastime, with excellent fair gardens of medicinall herbs, sweet flowers, and trees of delectable savour. But of one garden more especially it is said, that in it there were a thousand personages made, and wrought artificially of leaves and flowers. And Montezuma would not permit that in this garden should be any kind of Pot-herbs, or things to be sold, saying that it did not appertain to Kings to have things of profit among their delights and pleasures, for that such did appertaine to Merchants. Yet out of Mexico he had Orchards with many and sundry fruits; and likewise pleasant houses in woods and forrests, of great compasse, environed with water, in the which he had fountaines, rivers, ponds with fish, rockes and coverts where were Harts, Bucks, Hares, Foxes, Wolves and such like, whither he himselfe seldome went; but the Lords of Mexico used to goe to sport themselves in them. Such and so many were the houses of Montezuma, wherein few Kings were equall with him. He had dayly attending upon him in his privy guard six hundred noblemen and gentlemen, and each of them three or foure servants, and some had twenty servants or more according to their estate; and the most credible report goes, that in this manner he had three thousand men attendants in his Court, all which were fed in his house of the meat that came from his table. There were in those times under the Mexicall empire three thousand Lords of Townes, who had many vassals; but more especially there were thirty of high estate, who were able to make each of them a hundred thousand men of warre. And all these noble men did abide in Mexico, certaine time of the yeare in the Court of Montezuma, and could not depart from thence without especiall licence of the Emperour, leaving each of them a sonne or brother behind them for security of rebellion; and for this cause they had generally houses in the City; such and so great was the Court of Montezuma. Moreover he spent nothing in the buildings of all these his houses, for he had certayne Townes that payed no other tribute, but only to work and repair continually his houses at their own proper cost, and payed all kind of workemen, carrying upon their backes, or drawing in sleds stone, lyme, timber, water, and all other necessaries for the worke. Likewise they were bound to provide all the wood that should be spent in the Court, which was five hundred mens burthens, and some daies in the winter much more. But especially for the Emperours chimneys they brought the barke of Oke trees, which was esteemed for the light. Thus was that great City formerly illustrated with a mighty Monarch, his houses, and attendants. There were then also in Mexico three sorts of streets, very broad and faire; the one sort was only of water, with many bridges, another sort of only earth, and the third of earth and water, the one half being firme ground to walke upon, and the other halfe for boats to bring provision to the City; the most part of the houses had two doores, the one toward the Cawsey, and the other toward the water, at the which they tooke boat to goe whither they list. But this water (though so neer to the houses) being not good to drinke, there is other water fresh and sweet brought by conduit to Mexico, from a place called Chapultepec three miles distant from the City, which springeth out of a little hill, at the foot whereof stood formerly two statues, or images wrought in stone, with their Targets and Launces, the one of Montezuma, the other of Axaiaca his father. The water is brought from thence to this day in two pipes built upon Arches of brick and stone like a fair bridge; and when the one pipe is foule, then all the water is conveyed into the other, till the first be made cleane. From this fountaine all the whole City is provided, and the Water-men go selling the same water from street to street, some in little boats, others with earthen Tankards upon Mules or Asses backs. The chiefe and principall division of this City when the Spaniards first conquered it, was into two streets, the one was called Tlatelulco, that is to say, a little Island, and the other Mexico, where Montezuma his dwelling and Court was, signifying in the language a spring. And because of the Kings palace there, the whole City was named Mexico. But the old and first name of the City according to some Histories was Tenuchtitlan, which signifieth fruit out of a stone, being a compounded name of Tetl, which in the language is stone, and Nuchtli, which is a sweet fruit called generally in Cuba, and all other parts of America by the Spaniards, Tunas; the name of the tree whereon this fruit groweth is called Nopal. And when this City begunne to be founded it was placed neer unto a great stone that stood in the midst of the lake, at the foot whereof grew one of these Nopal trees; which is the reason why Mexico giveth for armes and device the foot of a Nopal tree springing from a stone according to the first name of the City Tenuchtitlan. But others do affirme that this City hath the name of the first founder of it, called Tenuch, the second sonne of Iztacmixcoatl, whose sonnes and descendents did first inhabit all that part of America, which is now called new Spain. Mexico is as much as to say a spring or fountain, according to the property of the vowell or speech, from whence some judge that City to be so named. But others doe affirme that Mexico hath its name from a more ancient time, whose first founders were called Mexiti, for unto this day the Indian dwellers in one street of this City are called of Mexica. And that these Mexiti tooke name of their principall idol called Mexitli, who was in as great veneration as Vitzilopuchtli, God of the warre. But others affirme (and this opinion is most received among the Spaniards) that the Mexicans first were the inhabitants of nova Galicia; from whence they made a violent irruption Anno Domini 720. and lingered in divers places till the yeare 902. when under the leading of Mexi their chiefe Captaine they built this City, and called it after the name of their Generall. They were in all seven Tribes, which ruled long in an Aristocraticall state; till the most puissant of the Tribes called Navatalcas elected a King to whom they submitted themselves. The first King that was thus elected, was called Vitzilovitli; the second, Acamopitzli; the third, Chimalpapoca; the fourth, Izchoalt; the fifth, Montezuma the first; the sixth, Acacis; the seventh, Axaiaca; the eighth, Antzlol, the ninth, Montezuma the second, who reigned when Cortez came first; the tenth, was Quahutimoc, who lost Mexico, and in whom ended that Indian Empire. The most fortunate of these Kings was Izchoalt, who by his cousin Tlacacllec, subdued the other six Tribes, and brought them under the Mexican Kings. And after the death of Izchoalt, Tlacacllec was by the first electours (which were six in number) chosen King, as a man of whose vertue they had formerly made tryall. But he very nobly refused it, saying that it was more convenient for the Common-wealth that another should be King, and that he should execute that which was otherwise more fit for the necessity of the State, then to lay the whole burthen upon his back; and that without being King, he would not leave to labour for the publike as well as if he were King. Upon this generous refusall they made choice of Montezuma the first. The most unhappy Kings of that nation (at whose birth could not but be some dysastrous aspect of the Planets) were the two last Montezuma the second, and Quahutimoc, who were both vanquished by Ferdinando Cortez, who tooke Montezuma prisoner out of his owne palace, and with fair words and language carried him to his lodging in Mexico; and kept him there, knocking a paire of gyves on his legges, untill the execution of Qualpopoca Lord of Nabutlan, now called Almeria (who was to be burnt for killing nine Spaniards) was past. But this imprisonment of their Emperour stirred up the hearts of all the Mexicans to conspire against Cortez and the Spaniards, against whom they fought a most fierce and bloody battaile two or three daies together, crying out for their Emperour, and threatning them with the cruellest death that ever man suffered. Whereupon Cortez desired Montezuma to goe up into the Sotie of his house which they were battering with stones, and to command his subjects to cease from their heat and fury; who at Cortez his request went up and leaned over the wall to talke with them, and beginning to speake unto them, they threw so many stones out of the street, houses, and windows, that one happened to hit Montezuma on the temples of his head, with which blow he fell down dead to the ground; and this was his end, even at the hands of his owne subjects and vassals against their wills, in the City of his greatest glory, and in the power and custody of a forain and strange nation. The Indians affirm that he was of the greatest blood of all his linage, and the greatest King in estate that ever was in Mexico. And from hence it may very well be noted, that when Kingdomes doe most flourish, then are they nighest to a change; or els to change their Lord, as doth appeare in this History of Montezuma, whose great glory and majesty presaged the downfall of that City and people; who though after the death of Montezuma they made Quahutimoc their Emperour, and persisting in their furious battery against Cortez his palace, caused him and all his Spaniards to flie out of Mexico; yet having strengthened themselves againe in Tlaxcallan; and prepared sixteen, or as others say, eighteen Vergantines for the lake, they soone after besieged Mexico so by water and land, that the Citizens were in great necessity, and so many dead with hunger and sicknesse, that there were heapes of dead bodies in the houses, only to keep close their extreme misery; who would not yeeld even when they saw their King Quahutimoc his fair houses burned, and the greatest part of their City consumed with fire and beaten downe plaine with the ground, so long as they could injoy any one street, Tower, or Temple to defend themselves and oppose the Spaniards; who after many fierce and bloody fights by land and with their boates by water having wonne the chief Market place and most of the City, as they went walking in the streets found heapes of dead bodies in the houses, streets, and in the water, and the very barkes of trees and roots gnawne by the hungry creatures, and the men so leane and yellow that it was a pitifull sight to behold. And with this Cortez yet required them to yeeld; but they although they were so leane of body were strong in heart, and answered that hee should not speak of any friendship to them, nor yet hope of their spoile, for when no fortune would favour them, then they would either burne their treasure, or throw it into the Lake, where they should never profit thereby, and that they would fight while one alone should remain alive.