The Pleasures of the Table / An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving - George H. Ellwanger

INDEX

"Accomplish'd Cook (The)," Robert May's, [99]
Ahasuerus (King), feast of, [12]
Aigrefeuille (M. d'), as an epicure, [69], [70], [129]
Aldergrove (John), on game, [354]
"Almanach des Gourmands," quoted, [70];
referred to, [73], [112] et seq., [157], [184], [233], [336];
its purpose, [132];
aphorisms of, [138-139]. Vide also "G. de la Reynière"
"Almanach Gourmand (L')," referred to, [225]
"Almanach Gourmand (Le Double)," quoted, [258]
Alsace, excellence of its cooks, [149]
"Ancienne Alsace à Table (L')," [148-150]
Angelica, [434]
Anne (Queen), as a gourmande, [102]
"Apician Morsels," a piratical volume, [336]
Apicius, as a cook, [29];
referred to, [40], [41], [50], [200]
Apios tuberosa, or ground-nut, [255]
Appetites (great), anecdote of the Vicomte de Viel-Castel, [214];
anecdote of a Swiss guard, [218];
anecdote of a French drummer, [218];
anecdote of an English chaplain, [288]
Archestratus, his lost poem on gastronomy, [13]
"Art Culinaire (L')," [121], [347], [408]
"Art de Diner en Ville (L')," [76]
"Art de la Cuisine Française au Dix-neuvième Siècle (L')," [206]
"Art du Cuisinier (L')," [71-72]
Arthus (Désiré), on old tavern-signs, [68]
"Art of Cookery (The)," Mrs. Glasse's, [107-111], [316]
"Art of Cookery (King's)," quoted, [93], [344]
"Art of Dining (The)," Thos. Walker's, [319];
Abraham Hayward's, [331] et seq.
Arts (the) and their masters, [131]
Athenæus, quoted, [8], [13], [16], [18], [21-23]
Attendance, importance of perfect, [321]
Audubon, on game, [362], [363], [370]
Autumn, glories of, [373] et seq., [398]
"Avalanche" (the), of Carême, [200]
Azincourt (Albouis), referred to, [130]

Baba, its history and virtues, [434]
Babiroussa (the), anecdote of, [212]
Bakers, the art of the German, [146], [171]
Baking, an ancient form of cooking, [10]
Balzac, quoted, [5], [351];
referred to, [177];
as a gastronomer, [219]
Banquets, early English, [90], [91]
Banville (Théodore de), quoted, [227];
referred to, [341], [445]
Baron Brisse, quoted, [32], [180], [344], [371], [405], [417];
as a gastronomer, [227-228];
his splendid gastronomic axiom, [228]
Barras (Vicomte de), dinner of, [65]
Baryé, referred to, [246]
Basting, importance of, [228]
Baudelaire (Charles), referred to, [445]
Beauvilliers, referred to, [6], [69], [70], [199], [202], [213], [386], [435];
quoted, [71], [110], [234], [442]
Béchamel, referred to, [54-55]
Beecher (Rev. Henry Ward), on pies, [436]
Beef, baron of, a royal dish, [92];
sirloin of, its origin, [99]
Beer, quotation in praise of, [145]
Beer-gardens, German, [151] et seq.
Beers, of Germany, [163-164], [168]
Bellone (Dr. de la), on the truffle, [390], [395]
Bénédictine, liqueur of, its history, [283-284]
Béranger, poem on the restaurant, [140]
Berchoux, referred to, [58], [72], [184];
his poem on gastronomy, [73] et seq., [385]
Bernard (Gentil), referred to, [73]
Bertinazzi (Carlin), referred to, [129]
Beverages, importance of, [4];
their relation to national cookery, [151-152], [163-164]
Bignon, anecdotes of, [342-343]
Bishop (a) of Burgundy, anecdote of, [304]
Blaze de Bury, on women, [433]
Blot (Pierre), [435]
Boar, the wild, [26], [39], [234], [236], [243], [246-247], [366]
Boar's-head, carols on the, [91], [93]
Boileau, axiom on punctuality, [269]
Boiling, a primitive method of cooking, [11]
"Boke of Keruynge," quoted, [85-87]
"Boke of Nurture," quoted, [84-85]
Bonaparte, Napoleon, as a gastronomer, [76]
Bonnechose (Cardinal), his famous mot, [284]
Bossuet, his "Oraison Funèbre" referred to, [232]
Bramble (Mathew), referred to, [324]
Bratwurst-Glöcklein, [163]
Breadstuffs, the first, [7];
used by the early English, [83]
Breckenridge (Vice-Pres.), anecdote of, [253-255]
Brontë (Charlotte), on the curate's dinner, [288]
Brouwer (Adrian), referred to, [445]
Browne (Wm.), sonnet on the mushroom, [400]
Bryant, "Lines to a Waterfowl," [292]
Bubble and Squeak, [278]
Buckland (Frank), referred to, [243]
Buffon, anecdote of, [385]
Bulwer, on the fox, [161]

Cæsar, his prodigal feasts, [44]
Café (vide also "Restaurant,") Véry, referred to, [6], [52], [213], [220], [258];
Voisin, referred to, [52];
Hardy, referred to, [52], [69], [220];
Riche, referred to, [52], [220], [250];
Véfour, referred to, [213], [258];
de Paris, referred to, [214], [219], [220], [221], [222], [258];
its great vogue in the '40's, [219];
Anglais, referred to, [220], [258];
Philippe, referred to, [258]
Caligula, referred to, [43]
Cambacérès, as a gastronomer, [69], [205];
referred to, [195]
Camerani (M.), referred to, [129]
Capon (the), as a favourite of the clergy, [306]
Caraway-seed, abuse of, in Germany, [169]
Carême, referred to, [13], [70], [194], [199-207], [211], [223], [229], [348-349], [350], [385], [408], [443];
eulogy of, [207]
Carp (the), as a favourite of the clergy, [306], [308]
Carver, Vatel's definition of a, [60]
Carving, importance of, [87], [138];
a novel monastic method of, [307]
"Castle of Indolence (The)," quoted, [238]
Cèpes. Vide "Mushrooms"
Charles II, as an epicure, [99]
Châteauroux (Duchesse de), [63]
Chatillon-Plessis, gastronomical axiom of, [265]
Cheese, Martin Schookius' book on, [146];
German varieties of, [167];
its proper place at dinner, [263];
its place and mission at dinner, [440]
Child (Theodore), as a false dietetic mentor, [417]
Civet of hare, [51]
Claré, [96]
Claudius, his great dining-room, [43]
Clergy (the), elaborate banquets given by, [90];
table excesses of, in old Alsace, [149].
Vide also individual references
Climate vs. alimentation, [168], [270], [334]
Clough (Arthur Hugh), poem on "The Dinner," [336]
"Cobbe's Prophecies," quoted, [80]
Cocktail, physiology of the, [196]
Coffee, remote use of, [9]
Colbert, referred to, [55]
"Compleat Housewife (The)," Mrs. E. Smith's, [98], [106], [109]
"Compleat Practical Cook (The)," Charles Carter's, [103]
Compots, [157], [174], [432]
Condé (Prince de), referred to, [54], [58], [60]
Contades (Maréchal de), referred to, [159]
Cook, Montaigne's reference to a, [51-52];
Berchoux's reference to a, [74];
importance of a good, [113];
attributes necessary for a good, [203], [207];
anecdote of a new, [259];
anecdote of a, [393]
Cook-book, the ideal, defined, [442-446]
Cook-books, early Italian, [49];
early Spanish, [50];
early French, [52];
early English, [81] et seq., [317];
17th-century English, [93] et seq.;
old German, [147-148], [150];
modern (vide specific references), written by the clergy, [281]
Cookery, its relation to life and health, [3], [70], [71], [251], [257-258], [286], [430];
modern progress in, [4];
vs. matrimony, [6];
Italian school of, [6], [49], [51], [195];
compared to painting, [6], [203];
in Biblical times, [7], [8], [9];
of the ancient Persians, [11], [12];
of the ancient Greeks, [13] et seq.;
of the ancient Sicilians, [14];
of the ancient Romans, [24] et seq.;
period of its greatest distinction in Rome, [25];
decline of ancient, [48];
vs. literature and art, [48];
the renaissance of, [49] et seq.;
of Spain, [50], [423];
its relation to the mind, [64], [176];
vs. diplomacy, [70];
home vs. the haute-cuisine, [72], [350], [429];
cry of its decadence, [79], [258];
Parisian school of, in England, [99];
of the English rural classes, [101], [102];
modern English, [111], [269] et seq.;
importance of good writers on, [113], [199];
period of its greatest distinction in France, [116];
complementary to national beverages, [151], [153];
excellence of German, [156], [174];
Carême's and the Marquis de Cussy's opinion of old Roman, [201];
of America, [249] et seq.;
of the modern French, [259] (vide also special references);
its relation to the church, [280] et seq.;
a difficult art, [442].
Vide also "Gastronomy"
Cooking-schools, [251], [260]
Cooks, jealousy of, [14], [202];
regulating the health of, [136]
"Cook's Oracle (The)," [316] et seq.
Cordon-bleu, origin of the term, [62]
Cucumber, remote use of, [9];
its virtues, [425]
Cuisine, the ideal, defined, [258]
Cuisine classique (the), [200]
"Cuisinier Parisien (Le)," quoted, [203];
referred to, [206], [349]
Curaçoa sec, as a digestive, [192]
Curé, anecdote of a, [293]
Cussy (Marquis de), referred to, [67], [127], [211], [213], [225], [305];
quoted, [120], [181], [201], [346], [383], [408]
Cuyp, referred to, [6], [203], [245]

Davis, Lieutenant-Colonel Newnham, [337-339]
De Candolle, referred to, [256]
Deffand (Mme. du), on strawberries, [144]
Delavigne (Cassimir), on dinners, [112]
"Délices de la Campagne (Les)," [59]
Délille (l'Abbé), on gardening, [71]
De Quincey on midday dining, [146]
"De re Culinaria," [29], [41], [50]
Désaugiers, poem on women, [119]
Dessert, its mission defined, [430];
etymology of the term, [438]
Dickens (Charles), on dining, [329]
Dinner, hours of, [83];
a good one, a simple one, [116], [320], [322], [324];
punctuality at, [126], [269], [291], [318], [319];
a wineless, [127], [263-266], [294], [295];
inhuman hours of, [145-146], [150];
its true hygienic hour, [146], [268], [269];
Savarin's definition of a perfect, [190];
Carême's classic, at the Baron Rothschild's villa, [200];
Dumas' definition of a good, [213];
of the Vicomte de Viel-Castel, [214];
the Sunday engorgement, [266];
evils of the "theatre", [267];
a good, as defined by an eminent Baptist ecclesiast, [299];
by the Ettrick Shepherd, [309];
by Thackeray, [315];
by Kitchener, [318];
by the Earl of Dudley, [320];
French definition of a perfect, [320];
importance of variety in the bill of fare, [329];
the graceful liar as an adjunct to, [331];
Arthur Hugh Clough's poem on the, [336]
Dinners, poor "company," [126], [261], [321], [329];
ministerial, [195];
similarity of, [195], [325], [328];
false etiquette of, [331]
"Dinners and Diners," [337-339]
Dish, the first recorded, [7]
Dishes, new, [72], [353], [380];
testing of, [135];
Hungarian, [167];
abuse of certain, [261]
Dom Gobelot, anecdote of, [310]
Domitian, referred to, [43]
Dom Pérignon, the inventor of champagne, [283]
Don Quixote, referred to, [50]
"Double Almanach Gourmand (Le)," referred to, [340]
Douw (Gérard), referred to, [197]
Drayton (Michael), quoted, [360]
Dreams, viands provocative of, [197]
Drinking-Cups, of the ancients, [31]
Du Barry (Mme.), a supper of, [62]
Dubufe, referred to, [234]
Duck, wild, the art of carving a, [87];
"When Father carves the" (poem), [87];
canvasback, [249], [369];
canvasback, Rev. Joseph Barber's poem on, [292];
wild, [359], [366], [369]
Dumas (Alexandre), quoted, [5], [49], [56], [206], [213], [214], [224], [225], [383];
referred to, [131], [149], [211-225], [321];
as a cook, [211];
as a gastronomer, [221];
anecdote of, as a chef, [222], [223]
Dumas fils (Alexandre), referred to, [5]
Dumonteil (Fulbert), his saying about truffles, [10]

Eating, evils of irregular, [267]
Egyptians, table appointments of, [10]
Elephant, proper sauce to eat one with, [345]
Ely (Rev. Joseph A.), translation of poem on the pig, [232]
Emerson, his mot on pies, [437]
Emetics, use of, among the ancients, [15]
English, meals of the early, [82];
not appreciative of fine cooking, [210], [274]
"Englishman in Paris (An)," quoted, [222]
Epicure, definition of an, [128], [131]
"Epicurean (The)," referred to, [353]
Epicurus, his maxims, [15]
Evelyn (John), on salads, [411]
Exercise, virtues of, [75], [378]

"Faerie Queene (The)," quoted, [235]
Fairy-rings. Vide "Mushrooms"
Fayot (M.), quoted, [3], [5];
referred to, [321]
"Feasts of Autolycus (The)," quoted, [343]
Fête champêtre. Vide "A shooting jaunt"
Fieldfare, [361]
Fig-pecker (the), [44], [192], [361]
Fish, fondness of the old Latins for, [26];
days in Elizabeth's era, [90], [308];
omelettes and pâtés of, [149];
variety and superiority of American, [251];
its complementary wine, [309];
proper cookery of, [368]
Flamingo (the), as a table bird, [44]
Fletcher (John), quoted, [96]
Flint cracker, origin of the, [263]
Fouquet, referred to, [54], [55], [58]
Francatelli, referred to, [6], [106], [199], [208], [226], [350]
France (Anatole), his mot on the pâté de Chartres, [434]
Frederick the Great, his poem to his cook, [146]
Frog (the), his first leap into the frying-pan, [150]
Fruit, after dinner, [267]
Fruits, the first cultivated, [9];
glass-grown in England, [273];
superiority of those of western New York, [274]
Frying, theory of, [179]
Fuger (Bishop), anecdote of, [310] et seq.

Game, Savarin's references to, [192], [193], [197];
Anthony Hayward on its cookery, [333];
preservation and protection of, [357-358];
definition of the term, [358];
effect of food upon flavour of, [359-360], [362-363], [370];
proper wines to accompany, [372];
species, haunts, pursuit, protection, value, and cookery of, Vide chapter "The Spoils of the Cover"
Garum, of the ancients, [46]
Gastaldy (Dr.), anecdote of, [120];
as an epicure, [130]
Gastronomer, the ideal, defined, [442-446]
Gastronomic tests, Savarin's illustration of, [190]
Gastronomy, Archestratus' lost poem on, [13];
Berchoux's poem on, [73-76], [184];
as defined by M. de Borose, [81];
as defined by La Reynière, [128];
French vs. German, [145], [151], [152];
finesse of its ethics, [157-158];
one of the most important arts, [176];
as defined by the "Dictionnaire de la Conversation," [184];
as defined by Savarin, [184];
cry of its decadence, [194];
its mainspring the pig, [229] et seq.;
as promoted by the religious orders, [285] et seq., [335];
in relation to sauces, [345];
St. Ange's disquisition on, [378-381];
in relation to sport, [354], [356], [445].
Vide also "Cookery," "Dinners," and individual references
Gavarni, his mot on the mushroom, [407]
Gemüthlichkeit, of the Germans, [153], [174]
Gérard (Charles), referred to, [148-150]
Gerarde, quoted, [256], [400], [411]
Gibson (W. Hamilton), [406], [407]
Glacer à la flamme, [203]
Glatigny (Albert), quoted, [63], [341]
Gluttony, as defined by woman, [343]
Goethe, referred to, [147], [430];
poem on game, [169]
Goldsmith (Oliver), quoted, [108]
Gonthier (Johann), referred to, [52]
Good-will, a sportsman's waste of, [381]
Goose (the), merits of, in Germany, [156];
in Strassburg and Alsace, [159-161];
and applesauce, [244]
"Goret (La Mort du)," poem, [232]
Gouffé (Jules), referred to, [199], [225-226], [227], [229], [445]
Gourmand, La Reynière's definition of a, [127-128]
Gourmandise, as defined by Savarin, [186];
vs. beauty, [187];
Gérard (Charles), quoted, [199]
Gout, [143], [270], [346], [444];
prevalence of, among the ancients, [46];
prevalence of in England, [96], [102];
vs. pâté de foie gras, [162]
Grace before meat, [291], [297]
Graces, the three spirituous, [196]
"Grad' aus dem Wirthshaus," German convivial song, [173]
"Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine," [211] et seq.
Greeks, meals of the ancient, [19];
gluttony of the ancient, [23]
Greeley (Horace), anecdote of, [239]
Grog, origin of the word, [97]
Grouse, ruffed, [356], [359], [364], [366], [370], [375], [376], [411];
pinnated, or prairie-chicken, [363], [365]