The Pleasures of the Table / An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving

by George H. Ellwanger

• Hafiz, quoted, [423]
• Hagenmark, [432]
• Hamerton, referred to, [243]
• "Hare, first catch your," origin of the term, [110]
• Harvest-home, poem on the celebration of, [101]
• Hasenbraten and Hasenpfeffer, [168]
• Hayward (Abraham), referred to, [331] et seq.
• Hayward (Anthony), on a chaplain's appetite, [288]
• Heidelberg, a dinner at the Wolfsbrunnen, [152]
• Heliogabalus, gluttony of his reign, [46-48];
• inventor of vol-au-vent à la financière, [48]
• Henry VIII, his fondness for sweets, [430]
• Herodotus, quoted, [10]
• Herrick, quoted, [79], [102]
• Herring, the "marinirte," [167]
• Hertford (Lord), anecdote of, [333]
• Hervilly (Ernest d'), referred to, [233]
• Hippocras, [57], [93], [94], [96]
• Hirztag, a strange custom of that festival, [150]
• Hollar, quoted, [358]
• Homer, quoted, [20]
• Hone (Wm.), poem on mince-pie, [435]
• Hood (Thomas), referred to, [316]
• Horace, quoted, [11], [26], [39], [40], [113], [398];
• referred to, [38], [39];
• his fondness for sweets, [428-429]
• Host, a delicate, as defined by La Reynière, [139];
• vs. guest, Baron Brisse's aphorism on, [228];
• his duty to his guests, [264-265], [330-331]
• Housewife, troubles of the, [260]
• Hugo (Victor), referred to, [341]
• Hunt (Leigh), on pig-driving, [239]

• Ice-cream, discoverer of, [434]
• Indian summer, poem on, [373]
• Indigestion, La Reynière on the causes of, [133]
• Ingoldsby (Thomas), referred to, [289];
• quoted, [280], [291], [306], [438]

• Jacque (Charles), referred to, [233], [245]
• Janin (Jules), referred to, [5], [211], [213], [348], [445]
• Jefferies (Richard), on feasting the chapel-pastor, [287]
• Johnson (Dr.), quoted, [111], [248]
• Jordaens, referred to, [6]
• Jury dégustateur (the), [120] et seq.
• Juvenal, referred to, [34], [37], [40];
• quoted, [37], [42]
• "Kalendare de Potages dyuers," [88], [90]
• Kempis (Thomas à), his fondness for salmon, [309]
• King (Wm.), poem on cookery, [279]
• Kitchener (Dr. Wm.), referred to, [106]
• Kuchen, merits of the German, [169], [174]
• "Kuchenmeisterey," [171]

• La Bruyère, quoted, [229], [380]
• Lacroix (Octave), his tribute to Dumas, [211]
• La Fontaine, referred to, [116]
• Laguipière, referred to, [6], [201], [202]
• Lamb (Charles), referred to, [17], [239], [240-242], [430];
• his apology to the pig, [240]
• Lampridius, quoted, [47]
• Larding (art of), its discoverer, [281]
• La Reynière (Grimod de), referred to, [66], [72], [112] et seq., [178], [196], [213], [225], [317], [336], [361], [443];
• poem of, [117];
• quoted, [118], [233], [236], [287], [345], [348], [383], [411];
• his home kitchen, [131], [132];
• as a gastronomer, [132];
• denounced by Savarin, [158];
• his tribute to Savarin, [177].
• Vide also "l'Almanach des Gourmands"
• La Rochefoucauld, quoted, [5]
• Leckerbissen and Frauenessen, [172]
• Lennox (Lady), anecdote of, [335]
• Liar, charm of the accomplished, [331]
• Liqueurs (celebrated), of monastic invention, [283-285]
• "Livre de Cuisine (Le)," [225]
• Locust (the), as an article of diet, [7]
• Louis XIII, as a gastronomer, [53];
• XIV, as a gastronomer, [64] et seq.;
• XV, as a gastronomer, [61];
• XVIII, as a gastronomer, [76], [78]
• Lucullus, as an epicure, [41-43];
• referred to, [45], [200], [201]
• Luncheon, an ideal woodland, [375] et seq.
• Lyne (Bishop de), referred to, [149]

• Macaroni, Dr. Gastaldy on, [120]
• Macaroni, Rossini's lost recipe for, [220]
• Madeleine (the), Dumas' story of, [169]
• Mæcenas, referred to, [38], [39]
• Magee (Bishop), anecdote of, [394]
• Mahony (Rev. Francis), poem on pâté de foie gras, [161];
• his "Watergrasshill Carousal," [309]
• Maintenon (Mme. de), referred to, [67], [63], [340]
• Maître d'hôtel, duties and importance of the, [136-138], [204]
• "Maître d'Hôtel Français (Le)," [206]
• "Manuel des Amphitryons," quoted, [69];
• referred to, [93-95]
• Markham (Gervaise), referred to, [93-95];
• quoted, [409]
• Marriage, Balzac's definition of, [351]
• Martial, quoted, [24], [31], [33], [44];
• referred to, [37], [38], [40]
• Marvell (Andrew), referred to, [81], [252]
• Mauri (Cardinal), his fondness for "Est, Est, Est," [311]
• Mead, its composition, [97]
• Medici (Catherine de), [52], [433]
• Melons, [9], [273], [298]
• "Memoirs of a Stomach," quoted, [271]
• "Memorials of Gormandizing," [329]
• Metheglin, [96], [98], [439]
• Metzelsuppe, Uhland's poem on, [166]
• Mézeray (Mlle.), referred to, [117-119], [125], [126]
• Mind vs. stomach, [5]
• Mistletoe-thrush, [361]
• "Modern Cook (The)," [208]
• Mohrenkeller, of Nürnberg, [163]
• Molière, referred to, [57], [58], [113]
• Monselet (Charles), quoted, [175], [194], [206], [264];
• referred to, [211], [225], [232], [340]
• Montaigne, quoted, [6], [51], [200], [376], [414];
• referred to, [147], [283]
• Montauron (Seigneur de), [54]
• Montausier (Duc de), [54], [55]
• Montespan (Mme. de), [58], [63]
• Montgomery (James), poem on the daisy, [424]
• Morellet (l'Abbé), anecdote of, [304]
• Morgan (Lady), referred to, [62];
• quoted, [200]
• Mouchy (Maréchal de), anecdote of, [64]
• Moynier (M. M.), referred to, [394], [396]
• Müller (Wilhelm), poem of, quoted, [311]
• Mullet, a much-valued fish, [32], [47];
• origin of the name, [33]
• Murger (Henri), referred to, [341]
• Mushrooms, [362];
• species, qualities, history, haunts, literature, and cookery of, [397-408]
• Musset (Alfred de), quoted, [219]
• Mutton, Pré-Salé and Southdown, [359], [380]

• Napoleon I, as a gastronomer, [61]
• Nasidienus, the feast of, [39], [40]
• Nero, his Domus aurea, [43]
• Ninon de l'Enclos, referred to, [175], [178], [200]
• North, (Christopher), [309], [316]
• "Nouvel Almanach des Gourmands," quoted, [220]
• Nudels, [167]

• Oaks, list of truffle-producing, [391]
• Oil and vinegar, [415-416]
• "Old Cookery Books," quoted, [275]
• Olive-oil, remote use of, [8]
• Olla podrida, [50];
• en grande, [50]
• Omelette (the curé's), anecdote of, [299-302]
• Onderdonk (Bishop), anecdote of, [295]
• Onion, an ancient vegetable, [9];
• tribe, virtues of the, [100], [107], [231], [387]
• "Original (The)," [319] et seq.
• Orsay (Comte d'), on French cookery, [258]
• Ortolans, [76], [361]
• Ostade, referred to, [74], [445]
• Oudry, referred to, [234]
• Ovens, Carême's remarks on, [202]
• Oyster-beds, first artificial, [27]
• Oysters, ancient modes of cooking, [89];
• superiority of American, [252]

• Pain perdu, [89]
• Painting, Italian school of, [6], [48], [245];
• Dutch and Flemish schools of, [6], [246], [445];
• French school of, [246]
• "Panthropeon, or History of Food (The)," [17], [209]
• Papabotte (the), [362-363]
• Parkinson (John), [81], [411]
• Parsley, virtues of, [106], [231]
• Pastry, La Reynière's definitions of, [138];
• Carême's definition of, [202]
• Pâte de foie gras, [7], [130], [156], [158], [161], [162], [189], [235], [236], [397];
• La Reynière's account of a, [123];
• its history, [159];
• d'écrevisses, [203];
• de Chartres, [434]
• "Pâtissier français (Le)," [59]
• Pennell (Elizabeth Robins), quoted, [107], [342]
• Pensey (Henrion de), his famous gastronomic axiom, [252]
• Pepper, superiority of adulterated, [417]
• Pepys (Diary of), quoted, [99-101]
• Perdrix à l'espagnol, [50]
• Perfumes, use of, at feasts, [13], [28]
• Petit-Radel (M.), anecdote of, [77]
• "Petite Cuisine (La)," [227]
• Petrarch, on wine, [293]
• Petronius Arbiter, referred to, [35], [37]
• Pheasant (the), [289], [359]
• Philippe d'Orléans, as a gastronomer, [61]
• "Philosopher's Banquet (The)," quoted, [106]
• Physicians, as gastronomers, [78], [267]
• "Physiologie du Goût (La)." referred to and quoted, [175] et seq., [206], [351], [395].
• Vide also "Savarin"
• Pie (pumpkin), its origin, [273];
• a game, [372]
• Pies, [249], [430] et seq.;
• wild boar, [89];
• strange early English, [95]
• Pig (the), his popularity as a signboard, [67];
• of Westphalia and Rothenburg, [164];
• as a factor of gastronomy, [229] et seq.;
• "Dissertation sur le Cochon," [231];
• "Gli Elogi del Porco," [231];
• M. Pouvoisin's eulogy of, [232];
• Rev. Joseph A. Ely's eulogy of, [232];
• Monselet's eulogy of, [232];
• Southey's eulogy of, [232];
• La Reynière's eulogies of, [233], [236];
• Ernest d'Hervilly's sonnet to, [233];
• Spenser's and Thomson's unjust strictures on, [235], [238];
• the Southern razorback, [235], [306];
• fondness for truffles, [236], [389];
• Leigh Hunt's essay on, [239];
• Charles Lamb's apology to the elder animal, [240];
• as a retriever of game, [244];
• a German eulogy of, [244];
• his influence upon the polite arts, [245-246];
• "Rôti-Cochon," [261], [414]
• "Pig-Driving, On the Graces and Anxieties of," [239]
• Planked shad, origin of, [253] et seq.
• Pliny, quoted, [31];
• referred to, [40], [384], [395]
• Plover, upland or grass, [361] et seq.
• Plum-porridge, [435]
• Plum-pudding, and history of, [334], [434-435]
• Pompadour (Marquise de), [63]
• Pope, quoted, [83], [103]
• Pork, the favourite dish of the ancients, [17];
• origin of, [230]
• Pork-pie, [89]
• Porridge, use of, by the ancients, [24]
• Potato, history of the, [255-256], [306]
• Potatoes, in England, [272], [330]
• Pot-au-feu, importance of the, [224]
• Propertius, quoted, [38]
• Prout (Father). Vide Rev. Francis Mahony "Psalm, a penitential," [286]
• Puff-balls. Vide "Mushrooms"
• Punch, origin of the word, [97]
• Punctuality. Vide "Dinner, punctuality at"
• Pumpkin, an ancient vegetable, [9]

• Quail, [363], [365], [366], [375], [382]

• Recipes
• A Blue-violet Salad ("The Story of My House"), [426]
• "A Bride's Pie" (Mrs. Glasse), [110]
• A good brown gravy (Mrs. Glasse), [109]
• A liver-pudding boiled (Mrs. Glasse), [109]
• Bakewell pudding, [276]
• Bouillon, Dumas' mode of preparing, [224]
• Brook trout (Savarin), [179];
• (Baron Brisse's formulas), [180]
• Cabbage, Apicius' recipes for, [29]
• Cèpes (Vuillemot's recipe for), [405]
• Chicken, Artimidor's recipe for, [18]
• Cock ale, Markham's formula for, [98]
• "Dish of Roses" (the). Laurentius' recipe for, [18]
• Flounder-souchy (Kitchener), [327]
• Gigot de mouton à la Richelieu (St. Ange), [380]
• Guisado, the Spanish, [51]
• How to collar a pig (Mrs. Smith), [109]
• How to roast a pig (Mrs. Glasse), [110]
• Kalter Aufschnitt, [169]
• Mutton Cutlets (Mrs. Walter Ellis), [276]
• Partridge aux choux (Baron Brisse), [371]
• Pheasant à la Sainte-Alliance (Savarin), [193]
• Potage aux choux (Dumas), [224]
• Quail à la financière (Gouffé), [226]
• Roast goose à l'allemande, [157]
• Sack-posset (Sir Fleetwood Fletcher), [439]
• Sauce for venison, mutton, and game (Francatelli), [208];
• for green geese and ducklings, [278];
• à la Schönberg (Her Gracious Serenity), [352]
• Spare-rib (Charles Lamb's new formula), [242]
• "The Curé's Omelette" (Savarin), [302]
• The hunter's sandwich, [441]
• Ranhofer (Charles), referred to, [353]
• Récamier (Mme.), referred to, [300]
• Reed-birds, [359], [361]
• Rembrandt, referred to, [6]
• Restaurants, first Parisian, [64], [66];
• excessive charges of Parisian, [140], [220], [342];
• Bignon, referred to, [219];
• American, [250];
• advantage of dining at, [339];
• Glatigny's sonnet on, [341];
• Bignon's, [341-343];
• Trois Frères Provençeaux, referred to, [258];
• a dinner at, in 1860, [297];
• English, [270], [275], [338].
• Vide also "Cafés," and specific references
• Retz (Cardinal de), referred to, [171]
• Réveillé-Parise (Dr.), referred to, [339]
• Richelieu (Cardinal de), [54], [302], [380];
• (Maréchal, Duc de), [303], [348]
• Riquette, referred to, [202]
• Ristori (Mme.), referred to, [220]
• Roasting, as defined by the Marquis de Cussy, [120]
• Robert, referred to, [6], [69], [194], [201], [202]
• Rocher de Cancale (restaurant of), [52], [115], [117], [118], [187], [221];
• a celebrated menu of, [140-142]
• Rohan (Cardinal), referred to, [150]
• Romans, luxury of the ancient, [25] et seq.;
• meals of the ancient, [27]
• Ronsard, referred to, [52];
• quoted, [79]
• Roques (Joseph), [408]
• "Royal Cookery" (Patrick Lamb's), [102]
• Rubens, referred to, [6], [245]
• Ruffs and reeves, [335]
• Ruysdael, referred to, [6]